A slideshow presentation of the Arrowhead Journey will be shown at the 2009 Fall Midwest Mountaineering Expo in Minneapolis, MN, at the Humphrey Center – Cowles Auditorium, on Saturday, November 21, 2009, from 12:45 – 1:45 p.m.  Free to the public.

Over the past summer Erik Simula and his dog Kitigan paddled a 1,000-mile route from Grand Portage to Duluth, to the Mississippi River and the US-Canadian Border, then back to Lake Superior in a handmade birch bark canoe.

By Erik Simula

Native Americans and Canadian Voyageurs mastered birch bark canoe building and wilderness travel throughout northern North America. Although largely forgotten, a few of us keep the ancient traditions alive.  

From April 22 – August 7, 2009, my dog, Kitigan, and I paddled a 1,000-mile route from Grand Portage to Duluth, the Mississippi River, the US-Canadian Border, and back to Lake Superior, encircling the Arrowhead Region of Northeast Minnesota. The 45-pound, 14-foot birch bark canoe I used, I hand-built in the high-end Ojibwe-Anishinaabe old tribal form using local white cedar wood for framing, split black spruce roots for lashings, white birch bark for the hull, and pine resin mixed with charcoal and bear grease for sealant. The canoe performed well, with occasional pitching needed on the seams to keep seepage to a minimum.

My outfit consisted of a food pack of dried trail food for 30 days, with three pre-cached food resupply points; a camp pack with tent, bedding and clothing; a kettle pack with cookware and repair supplies; a day pack which doubled as a seat; a fishing pole; and two paddles, which when tied into the canoe made a portage yoke. My main diet consisted of oatmeal, coffee, dried fruit, nuts, wild rice, fish and tea. Kitigan carried her own dog food, water bowl, blanket and harness in a dog pack.

Kitigan is a 40-pound, two-year-old female sled dog of Alaskan Husky and German Pointer breeding. She is a great companion, a guard dog, and good in the canoe. One of her main jobs was holding the canoe in the water by leash while I loaded or unloaded packs. She carried 20 pounds each portage and helped me “line” rapids by pulling the canoe upriver from shore in harness.

Departing on Earth Day, April 22nd, with a heavily laden canoe from Grand Portage National Monument, the warm send-off from family and friends soon turned into an incredible adventure. Lake Superior challenged me with snowstorms, shelf ice, swells, waves, winds, fog and currents, but revealed a multitude of wildlife and landscapes. I travelled in rhythm with nature, making distance when calm and resting safely on shore when seas were rough. Loons and eagles came close to observe, often leading the canoe for long distances. I camped each night under the canoe or in my tent, with Kitigan by my side. The 150-miles from Grand Portage to Duluth took 20 days, although windbound eight days, and was the most dangerous leg of the Arrowhead Journey.

The Savanna Portage route from Lake Superior to the Mississippi River, known as the Northwest Trail, was the most difficult section of the trip. Although rugged, it was once a common route prior to 1870, when railroads replaced it. A tremendous wetland full of wildlife and waterfowl, it is now protected in Savanna Portage State Park. I crossed hundreds of beaver dams and deadfall trees, navigated overgrown portages by compass, narrowly escaped an encounter with a mountain lion and an enormous black bear by night-paddling in starlight, and crossed the continental divide with an 18-mile, double-pack, double-carry, encountering thousands of wood and deer ticks, black flies and mosquitoes.

The highlight of the trip was on the Mississippi River, where I stopped in Grand Rapids to see my daughter, Anna, graduate from high school.  My lowest point was on the upper Bigfork River, where I became lonely and scared of the dangerous rapids and powerful downriver currents.

My favorite scenery was the canoe country from Rainy Lake to Grand Portage, known as the Voyageurs Highway. I hiked to rocky ridgetop vistas, overlooking beautiful boreal forests and waterways as far as the eye could see. On Basswood Lake, a huge fish knocked loudly on the bottom of the canoe! Fishing was very good, the weather stimulating and Natureʼs essence in the northern wilderness nourished my soul.

The Arrowhead Journey was more than a canoe trip of a lifetime. The ancient traditions of building the birch bark canoe and wilderness living are a passage through history and a reminder that nature and wildlife are fragile yet important aspects of human culture.

Published in NORTHERN WILDS   October – November 2009 issue.

The Timeless North: South Fowl Lake.

Reflecting back on the totality and simplicity of this voyage, important themes surface, such as awareness, compassion, respect, pursuit of knowledge and meaning, self integrity (contribution and contentment) and vision, which I believe encompass a large part of the human experience as we know it today, and are integral to a healthy family, society, world, and future.  We need to stay grounded by interconnection with the natural world around us.  How?  By absorbing and resounding Creation in its natural state and observing how the animals behave and interact (in their natural state), as an example of how we are to live, and in so doing remain healthy and strong as a species, and not overly oppressive or out of balance. 

The Arrowhead Journey, for me, is a metaphor in which a canoe trip becomes a symbolic life journey, a reminder and celebration of a time past, a time of deep contemplation and future vision.  It required me to plan, prepare and focus all my abilities for the single goal of safely returning, yet its implications are broad and revealing.  Its duration, route and old-time outfit touch on historical travel routes, traditions, and life ways which, although obsolete to most, remain effective and life-sustaining through to the modern era of the 21st century.  I searched for and found symbolic clues hidden within bedrock and birdsong.  Certain landforms concentrated energies and created portals which awakened my senses upon passage through.  I came to know my self and my dog very well. We were very happy.

I lived fully: chilled by the night’s coolness and darkness; warmed by sunlight; nourished by hand-harvested wild rice, fish and berries; delighted by scenic beauty; empowered by wildlife behavior; challenged by wind, waves, rain, insects, hunger, pain, and my own physical limitations; confronted as prey by a hungry mountain lion and bears, in which I had to dig deep within myself to find the courage and bravery to defend myself in an appropriate and non-threatening way (as defined by the predator); and interacted with people along the route, most of whom were very welcoming, sincere and encouraging.  At times I became fearful or lonely, and slowly worked through these feelings by remaining constant in my resolve.   

Time held little meaning.  Most critical were the necessities of adequate safety, daylight, shelter, clothing, water, and food.  Beyond these basics is the reward of time for rest, reflection, visiting, and helping others.  I believe these virtues will hold true throughout time.  When broken down to simplicities, it becomes clear what is important in life and what is not.

These reflections are insights into my canoe journey experience of the adventure, hardship, people, wildlife, landscape, history, rich Native American cultural traditions and magnificent natural beauty of the Arrowhead, along with my personal philosophy. I’m glad I sketched and recorded these thoughts daily in a journal.  To fully process and detail my observations of this journey will take a while and I plan to produce a book, which I am now starting to write.  I hope my effort in sharing these experiences with you, the reader, has been worthwhile and honorable in scope.

Sincerely,

Erik Simula

Day 105     8/4/2009     Partridge Falls       60-70 o F     Sunny      W Winds 5-15 mph

Filmed with CackleTV’s Justine Curgenven, professional canoe filmmaker, and Bearskin Lodge’s Quinn McCloughan, wilderness guide and canoe engine.  We started paddling and filming on Lake Superior at Artist Point – Grand Marais.  We hiked in and toured my Arrowhead Trail cabin, birch bark canoe building shop and sled dog kennel (10 Dogs, Alaskan Huskies).  Then we resumed the Arrowhead Journey at Partridge Falls of the Pigeon River, where we made camp at the head of the spectacular 20-ft. waterfall.  Pitched canoe.  Beautiful Full Moon.

 

Day 106     8/5/2009     Fort Charlotte     50-65 o F      W Winds 5-15 mph     Sunny/Thunderstorm

Portaged around Partridge Falls (120 rods) and paddled two miles down the Pigeon River to the site of Fort Charlotte, the western terminus of the 8.5-mile Grand Portage (2,720 rods), and made camp under beautiful old-growth white pines by the class I rapids.

 

Day 107     8/6/2009     Dog-Freight-Pines     50-70 o F     NW Winds 5-15 mph     Sunny     

Rained most of night at remote Fort Charlotte camp.  Cleaned and dried canoe and gear and prepared outfit for final portage.  Warm humid morning with mosquitoes bad.  Filtered four quarts of water.  Left camp at 2:30 p.m. in a single carry, with a 50-pound canoe, a 50-pound pack, and Kitigan pulling in harness and carrying a 20-pound pack.   Carried for 10-15 minutes, rested for 5-10 minutes at each pose.  Met professional photographer and friend Layne Kennedy and his daughter Austin on the Grand Portage Trail.  Stopped and rested at Junction Pose (Old Cascade Trail), High Pose (Highest Elevation of the Grand Portage), Beaver Pond Pose, The Cedars Pose, The Fountain Pose, Poplar Creek Pose, and Dog Freight Pose.  Portaged six miles along good trail in respectable time with no injury.  Made bivouac camp at 9 p.m.  

 

Day 108     8/7/2009     Grand Portage Rendezvous – End of Arrowhead Journey!      Sunny/Calm

Mulligan (very small) cook fire for coffee and breakfast.  Outfit, Canoe, Man and Dog all ready to finish strong.  Portaged three miles to Lake Superior, arriving at the mouth of the Grand Portage Creek at 4 p.m.  To welcome me in and help me down the last mile of the Grand Portage Trail were Dawn Simula, Vern Simula, Layne Kennedy, Austin Kennedy, Voyageur LaFreniere (John Powers) and a promising engage (young laborer).  Paddled Lake Superior around creek to land at the Historic Encampment to a very warm welcome.  Upon landing, was greeted by many friends, including Grand Portage National Monument Superintendent Tim Cochrane and Chief of Interpretation Pam Neil.  After Talk of the Trail and friendly re-aquaintences, we made camp in Grand Portage for the last night of the Arrowhead Journey.

 

Arrowhead Journey (April 22 – August 7, 2009) – 2010 and Beyond!

It’s been an incredible canoe voyage through the Arrowhead’s most pristine north country.  I am grateful for a safe return and thank all of you who have supported me.  I have a greater appreciation for wilderness, wildlife, traditional Native American lifeways, the tenacity of the Voyageurs, early settlers, and the region’s current inhabitants.  I plan to write a book about the trip and continue my work as a birch bark canoe builder, outdoor skills instructor, park ranger, and wilderness guide.  

I’ll update this website periodically with information for ordering Arrowhead Journey photographs, maps, original artwork, and for book publication news.  Happy Trails!  

Erik Simula & Kitigan

On Wednesday and Thursday of this week (8/5-6/09) filmmaker Justine Curgenven, of Cackle TV, filmed the last leg of Erik’s journey. Eventually this will appear as a segment in her next DVD.

She blogged about it at: http://cackletv.blogspot.com/

Erik on the Pigeon River this week, while being filmed

Day 105    8/4/2009    Partridge Falls Departure    50-70 o F   NW Winds 5-10 mph  Sunny

Resuming canoe travel for final 12 miles of journey!  Kitigan and I are in fine spirits and top shape for the last leg.  The canoe has been repaired and pitched tight.  

We plan to arrive at the Grand Portage Rendezvous on Friday, August 7, 2009, at the Historic Encampment in “The Pines” (Grand Portage National Monument Picnic Grounds) on Lake Superior.  I hope to complete the Grand Portage Trail by 4 p.m., and visit from 4 – 5 p.m.  The public is welcome.  I look forward to seeing my family and friends!

As always, we will travel safely, quietly, and with respect for the land, wildlife and the people who call this beautiful area home.  Migwetch!  Kiitos!  (Thank you!)

 

Back Home to Lake Superior

 

Day 94 – 7/24/2009      The Meadow    12-miles     45-65 o F     Thunderstorms  

Up at 3 a.m. to rain sprinkles, high gusty winds and low pressure feel.  On water by 5 a.m. with clouds of mosquitoes.  Crossed North Fowl Lake two miles in heavy rains on calm water as thunder rumbled behind me to the west.  Saw six otters swim across the sandbar narrows crossing into South Fowl Lake.  I nervously paddled as hard as I could to cross South Fowl Lake two more miles in downpour rains,  as lightening and thunder chased me.  At 6:30 a.m., an abrupt, stiff, south-southeast wind  picked up, kicking up whitecaps and driving (wind-ferrying) me the last 1/4-mile southeast to arrive at Goose Rock, the head of Fowl Portage (320 rods), just as severe (hair-raising) lightening and thunder overtook me.  After carrying to the first pose and the thunderstorm passed, Kitigan and I hiked to the top of Goose Rock, where I saw a bald eagle and two peregrine falcons.  Completed Fowl Portage double-carry in four hours.  At the foot of Fowl Portage, I watched a frog try to cross the Pigeon River (which here is only 10-feet wide and 18-inches deep) in three hops, with a northern(fish) lunging at the frog on each hop, finally snatching the frog in mid-air!

Paddled three miles of beautiful flat water along the Pigeon River with many ducks and wild rice still in floating stage.  Saw a big cow moose at the mouth of Stump River.  Watched a downpour rain on the water surface approach, but stopped within 10 feet of the canoe!   At the head of the two-mile section of shallow rapids, I started the Caribou Portage (100 rods), with hopes of carrying around this entire bad stretch of river (including English and Big Rock Portages, both now completely overgrown).  However, only the moose have kept this trail packed, and only for the first 20 rods, where it then turned south and merged into an overgrown logging trail.  I attempted locating, even re-establishing (scouting and flagging), the original portage trail, only to backtrack after two futile, exhausting hours of floundering in near impassable deadfall and overgrowth.  I lined the canoe down two miles of rapids, with Kitigan and I walking in shallow water, dragging and pushing the delicate birch bark canoe over hundreds of aluminum and kevlar-coated rocks.  The canoe leaked so bad I bailed continually, approximately 50 gallons every three minutes.  I cringed at the thought of shredded hull bark.  At 7 p.m.,  exhausted and drenched, we stopped at the Meadow, the flat riverbank below all the rapids, where the Voyageurs routinely camped.  To my surprise, the bottom of the canoe held up quite well, with minimal bark damage, although all the pitch was gone and a few lenticels had split open.  I was never so happy to make camp.  Today was the most intense and one of the hardest days of the journey!

 

Day 95 – 7/25/2009      Partridge Falls &  Lake Superior!      60-65 o F      Rain

Dried gear and canoe in morning sun, covering with tarps every 20 minutes from rain.  Repaired canoe for five hours using all my available pitch.  Departed at 2 p.m.  Canoe leaked minimally, but did not have to bail water at all.  Arrived at Partridge Falls at 4 p.m. and cached canoe and outfit in woods.  Kitigan and I hiked six miles down Partridge Falls Road and Old Highway 61.  Saw a small black bear cub near section 33 clearing under old white pines.  Caught a ride from Amber Porter and Jeanne Spry the last six miles from Mineral Center to Grand Portage.  Kitigan and I sat together on the shore of Lake Superior, elated like never before! What a Feeling!  We did it!  We had returned home to Lake Superior!  

 

Days 96 – 104         Layover at Partridge Falls – Arrowhead Trail Cabin     

Days 105 – 108      Grand Portage Rendezvous – Finish of Arrowhead Journey

What an adventure it has been!  But, it’s not over yet.  I’ll rest up for ten days, reunite with my sled dogs, and repair the canoe at my cabin home on the Arrowhead Trail.  Then, on August 4th, I’ll resume travel for the final 12 miles from Partridge Falls Portage (120 rods), paddle three miles down Pigeon River to Fort Charlotte, and complete the Grand Portage (2,720 rods) with my canoe and outfit (and Kitigan), planning to arrive at the Grand Portage Rendezvous on the afternoon of Friday, August 7th, 2009, to officially finish the Arrowhead Journey.

 

Day 93 - 7/23/2009 Mountain Lake Dawn Headwaters of Pigeon River

 

Day 88 – 7/18/2009     South Lake – Height of Land Portage – 12 miles   50-65 o F     Drizzle     NNW Winds 5-15 mph     

Departed Gunflint Lake at daybreak in rough seas, crossed to Canadian shore to break wind.  Saw a moose, red fox and snowshoe hare.  Saw sheer cliffs starting on North Lake.  Hard carry over Height of Land Portage (elevation 1560 ft., 80 rods).  Made Camp on South Lake.  Nice calm evening.  Pitched canoe.  Mosquitoes bad. 

 

Day 89 – 7/19/2009     Rose Lake – 8 miles    55-75 o F     NW Winds 5 mph     Sunny

Lots of birdsong in morning.  Fish surfacing all around camp on calm lake.  Collected pitch.  Carried over South Lake Portage (57 rods) and Rat Portage (4 rods).  Gentle tailwind all day.  Nice tall cliffs on Rose Lake.  Camped under big white pines on east end of Rose Lake.

 

Day 90 – 7/20/2009     Mountain Lake – 14 miles     50-75 o F     W Winds 10-20 mph     Sunny

On water before sunrise.  Carried over Long Portage (660 rods) in five hours, double packing in 1/4-mile poses (rest stops), went very well.  Used newly braided leather tumpline for carrying canoe which worked perfectly.  Steady tailwind down Rove and Watap Lakes.  Carried over Watap Portage (elevation 1660 ft., highest divide in Arrowhead, 100 rods).  Made camp at east end of Mountain Lake at “Tool-Rock Camp”, under sheer cliffs and boulder field.  Thunder rumbling in west at dark.  Canoe has not leaked since the Granite River.  

 

Day 91 – 7/21/2009     Mountain Lake Layover     55-75 o F     Rain

Rained all day and night.

 

Day 92 – 7/22/2009      Mountain Lake Layover     55-75 o F     Rain

Hiked to top of Moose Mt. (elevation 2012 ft.) and climbed to top of biggest white pine tree for the view.  Mountain Lake is my favorite lake of the entire Arrowhead Journey route.  It’s the headwaters of the Pigeon River, and the highest lake (elevation 1644 ft.) of my route.  It has many big “mountain” peaks on its south shore (elevations 1989 ft., 2055 ft., 2065 ft., 2050 ft., and 2012 ft.).  Thunderstorm at noon.

 

Day 93 – 7/23/2009     North Fowl Lake – 7 hard miles     55-75-o F     E Winds 5-15 mph     Cloudy

On water by daybreak.  Travelled through Lesser Cherry Portage (90 rods), Fan Lake, Vaseux Portage (40 rods), Vaseux Lake, Great Cherry Portage (140 rods).  These portages have very jagged, rough rocks and are hard on the feet when carrying heavy loads, even in sturdy boots.  Made camp early on northwest side of North Fowl Lake, rather than push into a headwind.  Feels great to get through the upper Pigeon River and onto the Fowl Lakes.  Canoe is still holding tight and not leaking.  Camped 10 miles due north of my cabin.  Early start tomorrow.

Granite River rapids

Day 74 – July 4th, 2009     Moose Lake    6-miles     50-70 o F     SW Winds 5-10 mph     Sunny

Slept 12 hours at Sucker Lake Camp.  Down-sized and re-packed outfit.  Left camp at 4 p.m.  Paddled 6 miles in headwind to arrive at 7 p.m. at Sommers Canoe Base (140 staff) on Moose Lake (also known formally as the Northern Tier National High Adventure Base of the Boy Scouts of America) where I began guiding wilderness canoe trips in 1982.  Received a very warm welcome from fellow “Charlie Guide”  (Trail Interpreter) Bobby Johnson, who introduced me to many fellow staff and then helped me raid the Base kitchen (a tradition).  Because of the July 4th Holiday, the Base was relatively quiet, however, the sauna (pronounced sow-na) was stoked extremely hot, right to my liking.  I leisured the dirt and pains away with loyly (the essence of the traditional Finnish sauna: combining the healing qualities of cedar wood, hot stone-produced steam and intense heat).  A spare cabin bunk with a real mattress put me to sleep instantly, with Kitigan by my side.

 

Day 75 – 7/5/2009     Sommers Canoe Base – Layover     55-75 o F     NW Winds 5-15 mph     Sunny

Breakfast with staff.  Laundry, phone calls, wrote letters.  Sent myself a package home in the mail with all the things I decided I no longer needed on the trail and didn’t want to carry further (used maps, empty second fuel bottle, fry pan, extra spoon, etc.)  Gave informal presentation to about 30 staff with great interest in my journey and using a birchbark canoe.  Pitched canoe.  Wind picked up so I decided to lay over.  Attended the rendezvous for crews coming off the water (end of 10-day canoe trip), which was extremely well done, with stories, skits, songs, campfire, musket firings, and more.   Slept in my tent at canoe landing for early start in morning.

 

Day 76 – 7/6/2009     Knife Lake     15-miles     50-75 oF     W Winds 10-25 mph     Whitecaps     Sunny

Up at 3:30 a.m. for an early departure by moonlight, when to my surprise a canoe landed with three Sommers trail staff just returning from Kekekabic Lake, after night-paddling to finish a 1-day, 40-mile detail to check up on a trail-work crew.  On the water by 4:30 a.m.  Breakfasted with strong coffee on east end of Birch Lake at 9 a.m., and discreetly chased a confused motorboat operator out of the non-motorized wilderness area.  Large Bald Eagle snatched a fish out of the shallows 20 feet in front of my canoe: spectacular site!  After 5 portages (@ 25-75 rods) made Knife Lake camp on Robbins Island at 6 p.m.  A beautiful, perfectly calm evening, in which I thought of night paddling the length of Knife Lake under the full moon, but my forearm muscles needed rest, so I stayed put and relaxed.  I watched two young women cruise by at 9 p.m., making easy mileage on calm water and deep in quiet conversation that time-on-trail with a good partner fosters. 

 

Day 77 – 7/7/2009     Ottertrack Lake – Full Moon    14 miles      50-75 o F     NE Winds 5-15 mph     Sunny

Early start on calm water.  Hiked up to Thunder Point vista.  Hugged north shorelines to shelter headwinds.  Saw a large cow moose in brush at 30-feet on Little Knife Lake.  Watched a bald eagle attempt to fly across a narrows, only to drop and swim the last 20 yards.  He looked healthy, but was obviously injured.  He managed to fly up to a nearby tree and rested.  Portaged up to Gijikiki (Cedar) Lake, Rivalry Lake and Lake of the Clouds, a very steep series of portages to gorgeous lakes with a stunning cliff-ridgeline.  Wilderness Fishing Guide Kelly Murphy from Ely first told me about Lake of the Clouds while we were mushing through Ottertrack Lake with Brian Fredericksen years ago, and now I’ve finally been there.  Thanks Kelly!  Visited the pictographs on Ottertrack Lake and made camp at dark near John Tanner’s campsite.

 

Day 78 – 7/8/2009     Saganaga Lake     14-miles     50-75 o F     NE Winds 5-15 mph     Sunny

On water by 5 a.m.  Watched large snapping turtle swim under canoe in clear water while loading.  Otter at Ben Ambrose’s homesite.  Ran into fellow Charlie Guide Fred Marks on the east end of Ottertrack Lake with his crew on day 8 of their trip around Hunter’s Island.  Fred had visited with me the summer before at Grand Portage when he paddled through on the Hudson Bay trip which he completed late last summer.  Caught a nice lake trout (8-10 pounder).  Carried across Monument Portage (70 rods) and paddled through the series of narrows on the west end of Saganaga Lake, a really pretty area.  Stopped at 1 p.m., where the big part of Sag Lake opens up, due to headwinds.  Cooked dinner and rested until the wind died down.  Back on water at 6 p.m.  Paddled around American/Rocky Point in rough seas and crossed to Munker Island.  Camped at dark.  

 

Day 79 – 7/9/2009     Granite River     7-miles     60-70 o F     SE Winds 20-35 mph     Cloudy

Up at 3 a.m., on water by 4 a.m.  Concerned about safe big water crossing and rough seas, thus the early start by moonlight.  Light wind already increasing by sunrise, but successfully crossed into Red Sucker Bay without incident.  Portaged around Saganaga Falls (36 rods) and pitched canoe while I breakfasted from 8-9:30 a.m.  Now the wind had picked up to a serious south blow, 20-25 mph, gusting to 35 mph.  I slowly but easily wind-ferried upriver and portaged around Horsetail Rapids (27 rods) and made camp by noon on a Canadian island on Maraboeuf Lake.   It felt really good to have used the early mornings of the last few days to position myself for a safe crossing on Saganaga, a serious, big body of water, when the wind blows.  Now, I’m on the safe side of Sag, so let the wind blow!  Sweetgrass by the cookstove made cooking dinner a delight!  Pitched canoe, again.

 

Day 80 – 7/10/2009     Windbound on Granite River     60-75 o F     W Winds 20-35 mph     Cloudy

Whitecaps at wake-up means windbound!  Slept 16 hours.  

 

Day 81 – 7/11/2009     Clove Lake     8-miles     45-60 o F     Gusting High N Winds 15-30 mph      Cloudy/Cool

Early start.  Crossed Maraboeuf Lake just in time, before whitecaps.  Crossed 6 portages (@ 20-75 rods).  Lined up last rapids, only to chip too much pitch off of canoe on rocks (saved a carry, but lost time overall due to damage repair).  Saw pictograph near Granite Lake.  Stiff tailwind all day.  Made camp near Pine Portage (110 rods) for early start in morning.  Dried gear and repaired canoe.  Collected pitch.

 

Day 82 – 7/12/2009     Gunflint Lake     8-miles     45-70 o F     NW Winds 10-15 mph      Clear/Sunny

Early 3 a.m. start on Pine Portage in moonlight.  Upper Granite River a narrow water flow through an impressive granite bedrock and boulder landscape.  Carried over 5 portages, including Blueberry Portage and Little Rock Falls.  Saw first baby loon with its mother.  Crossed Magnetic Lake and Gunflint Lake by 10 a.m.  Landed at Gunflint Lake public access and cached canoe and gear in woods with Kitigan on guard duty.  Walked to Gunflint Lodge to make phone calls, shower and have a good lunch at the Red Paddle Bistro.  Sheryl Hinderman advised me of several bears with cubs prowling the area this summer.  

 

Days 83-85     7/13-15/2009     Gunflint Lake Layover     

I’ll stay at Gunflint Lake for a few days to update the online journal, do some minor canoe repairs, resupply and rest up.  The trip has been truly inspiring for me to this point.  The country from Lac La Croix to Grand Portage is payoff for inland river toil.  Kitigan and I are both well,  physically and mentally.  The remaining 75 miles, while still rugged and beautiful, are more mountainous, have longer portages, and are larger lakes, which, when the wind blows, can make canoe travel difficult.  We will carefully push on toward the Grand Portage Rendezvous and the end of the “Arrowhead Journey”.  The way of traditional wilderness life and the laws of nature are ancient truths: worth experiencing and preserving, and are insights to human survival.

 Day 64 – 6/24/09     Crane Lake    65-80 o F    2-miles      SW Winds 5-10 mph     Sunny

Left Crane Lake from Nelson’s Resort at 7 p.m., paddled north 2 miles and camped at King Williams Narrows campsite.  The paddle across Crane Lake was scary, as a southwest quartering tailwind with 1-foot, white-capping waves combined with a resupplied 75-pound food pack and a leaking canoe stretched my abilities to stay afloat.  Mosquitoes, black flies (gnats), and no-see-ums quite horrendous!   I use only long sleeve clothing, leather gloves and headnet  for protection (no insect repellent in 20 years).   At dark, Kitigan alerted me to an adult black bear.  We watched it walk by, silhouetted by the lake, but it never came closer than 75 feet.  Still, an uneasy feeling falling asleep in active bear country.  

 

Day 65 – 6/25/09     Loon River     24-miles     60-80 o F     N Winds 10-25 mph     Sunny

Up early to break camp, pitch canoe and paddle through the Narrows before the winds and motorboat traffic picked up.  Paddled by the ‘Face in the Rock’ and pictographs.  Met Bill & Joni who were boating to Kettle Falls (friends of birchbark canoe builder Ferde Goode) who gave me transport to Little Vermilion Lake to bypass the motorboat traffic and serious wakes in the Narrows. Paddled up 56 Rapids and carried over Loon Falls Portage (75 rods ),(1 rod= canoe length=18 feet, 320 rods=1 mile).  Talked with fellow Ely musher/trapper and friend Charlie Cowden who operates Loon Falls Marine Railroad.  Camped on Loon Lake at ‘Deer Skeleton Point’.  No-see-ums at peak population.

 

Day 66 – 6/26/09     Lac La Croix     14-miles     50-80 o F     Calm     Sunny

On water by 5 a.m.     Portaged Beatty Portage (50 rods).   Lac La Croix water calm as glass.  Passed by ancient pictographs: sacred Anishinaabe rock paintings (often representing significant dreams) which should never be photographed, and placed tobacco offerring in nearby cliff.   Stopped at Lac La Croix Ojibwe First Nation Reserve at outlet of Namakan River.  Met and talked with tribal game warden Andrew Jordain.  Had a great time meeting and visiting with many very nice new and old friends.  Taken in and slept at the home of Leonard Ottertail, chi miigwetch! 

 

Day 67 – 6/27/2009      Lac La Croix First Nation Reserve   –  Windbound     45-60 o F     E Winds 20-45 mph  

Portaged from Village Powwow Grounds to nearby campsite with assistance from Jeff Morrison, Lac La Croix Ojibwe, and exchanged gifts (Lac La Croix First Nation Eagle Cup & Manoomin (Wild Rice).  You helped me portage and greatly inspired me, Jeff, miigwetch!  Met Delbert Whitefish, Lac La Croix Band of Ojibwe/Quetico Provincial Park “coexistence” conservation ranger, who motored out several miles in extremely rough seas to check and make sure I was OK, miigwetch Delbert!     

 

Day 68 – 6/28/09     Windbound – Lac La Croix    55-65 o F     W Winds 25-50 mph     Intermittent Rain

Intense Blow.  Repacked and organized outfit.  Hunkered down under 300-year-old red pines and savored the song of the storm.

 

Day 69 – 6/29/09     Iron Lake    20-miles      40-55 o F     NW Winds 10-30 mph     Drizzle

Re-pitched canoe.  Early start to cross largest body of Lac La Croix in medium-rough seas.  Carefully picked my way from island to island, taking an occasional wave over the gunnel, despite hip-rolling the canoe for protection from each wave, “knocking-down” the whitecaps before they hit the canoe with well-placed underwater paddle backthrusts, and simply outrunning the biggest sets of waves.  Kitigan is surprisingly calm in rough seas.  Visited with a canoe group using Joe Seliga wood canvas canoes from Ely’s Camp Widjiwaagan, while taking a lunch break in the small wind-protected bay of Fish-Stake Narrows, on a 23-day trip enroute to Sioux Lookout in Northwest Ontario.  Passed beautiful cliffs with many pictographs.  Climbed Warrior Hill, so named for its very difficult, steep, bare rock ascent.  Found ripe blueberries on the very top of Warrior Hill (a month early).  Carried over Bottle Portage (80 rods of deep mud).  Camped on Iron Lake at dark.

 

Day 70     6/30/09     Crooked Lake     8-miles     45-55 o F     NW Winds 10-30 mph     Drizzle

Crossed Iron Lake to Rebecca Falls.  Carried around Curtain Falls Portage (120 rods) to Crooked Lake.  See Eagles every day of trip.  Fishing from camp each night continues to easily fill the fry pan, which I cook with wild rice, crackers and most everything else into what’s known as Kala Mojakka (Finnish: Fish Stew) or Rubbaboo (French-Canadian: Voyageur  Pemmican-Soup). With rough seas, chose to camp early and rest.  Studied maps and pitched canoe. Camped in “Sunday-Night Bay”.

 

Day 71 – 7/1/09      Wheelbarrow Falls – Basswood River      23-miles      45-60 o F     NW Winds 5-20 mph     Drizzle

On water by 6 a.m.  Stiff tailwind by 9 a.m.  Big Otter eating fish on rock island.  Five individual deer on shore, one deer swimming between islands.  Old 1920’s Model T Ford on Canadian Side of Thursday Bay of Crooked Lake!  Big reflection swells pushed me upwind and upcurrent for a good quarter-mile dogleg.  Several less experienced canoe parties traveling the same route keep passing me (I paddle slower but very direct, whereas they paddle fast, “kevlar cruisers”, often losing direction and find me way ahead of them again and again).  Saw first moose of trip in Canadian Moose Bay.  Lunched with nice couple at Table Rock.  Passed Crooked Lake pictographs.  Portaged around Lower Basswood Falls (80 rods) and Wheelbarrow Falls (70 rods).  Camped at dark along Basswood River.  Friendly beavers visited at dusk as they do often.

Basswood Lake US Point

 

Day 72 – 7/2/09     Basswood Lake – U.S. Point      8-miles     45-65 o F     NW Winds 5-10 mph     Cloudy

On water by 6 a.m.  Lined up several rapids.  Carried over (ran, with Kitigan pulling in harness) Basswood Falls Portage (380 rods/1.2 miles), double-pack/double-carry in one hour (17 min. 1st trip, 10-min return, 18-min 2nd trip, plus minimal rest and unloading/loading).  Made camp at 1:30 p.m., before rounding U.S. Point on Basswood Lake at my very favorite campsite/location of the trip.  This was the mental crux, or pivotal point, of the journey for me, and I knew that once I rounded U.S. Point I would again see motorboats, increased canoe groups and less remote canoe wilderness.  The lakes and forests from Lac La Croix through Crooked Lake and into Basswood Lake are my favorite of the journey thus far, as I have many good memories of previous trips in this region, and because of its sheer beauty and rugged landscape.  I let Kitigan run loose all afternoon and evening, as I pitched the canoe, cooked, and made a nice camp.  I relaxed and wrote and felt very enlightened.  It’s as though I’ve mentally relived my life, past and future, in the duration of this canoe journey, and been able to think about and focus on personal and cultural values most important to me, such as stewardship toward a healthy earth, its wildlife, and a sustainable, healthy society; protecting and providing for my  family; and traditional living which promotes personal health and happiness.  As the skies cleared and the sun shined through for the first time in a week, so did my thoughts, and I slept as though on a cloud, as a 3/4-full, waxing moon shined bright overhead.

 

Day 73 – 7/3/09     Prairie Portage     14-miles     50-70 o F     NW Winds 5-10 mph     1/2-Sunny

Awoke very early to an old woman talking in the Basswood Lake wind.  Hiked  a 145-foot high ridge south of the campsite with Kitigan and found a beautiful vista with faraway views.   Timber wolf scat (showing deer hair) and wolf trails along ridgetop. Collected spruce and pine resin for the pitch pot.  Broke camp in late morning and paddled around Canadian Point and into rough seas in Bayley Bay (known for its high winds and waves) at the east end of Basswood Lake.  A huge fish came up under the canoe and swirled, knocking loudly on the bottom of the canoe, which made me feel befriended by the old-timer.  Carried over Prairie Portage where 25 years ago my late mentor, and Quetico Park Ranger, Stan Walsh once showed me wildflowers and forest floor life for hours, a vivid memory which inspired my direction in life.  Camped at Sucker Lake, where 3 beavers and 3 loons visited with Kitigan and me at a very close distance for a long time at dusk.